Birding In The Sultanate of Oman
Text and photos by Hanne & Jens Eriksen
The Sultanate of Oman lies on the north-eastern corner of the Arabian peninsula bordering the UNITED Arab Emirates in the north, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia in the west and Republic of Yemen in the south-west. The 1700 km coastline faces the Gulf of Oman in the north, the Arabian Sea in the east and the Indian Ocean in the south.
The size of the country is about the same as England. The capital, Muscat, lying on the line of Capricorn is said to be the hottest capital in the world with summer temperatures approaching 50°C in the shade. However, from December through February the weather is 25°C in the daytime, 15°C at night. Usually the sun shines from a clear sky, but the winter months can bring a few quick showers which are much needed and looked forward to.
The northern part of the country is dominated by the mountain range Jebel Akhdar which includes the 3000m. high Jebel Shams. The north-eastern slopes of these mountains form a fertile plain, the Batinah, along the Gulf of Oman.
This is where most of Oman’s estimated 1.5 million people live and where Muscat is located. In the south, the Dhofar Mountains – reaching about 1200m. – slope towards the Indian Ocean. In summer, the monsoon transforms the hills into extensive grasslands and the mountain valleys take on a tropical look.
The temperature in Salalah, the capital of the southern region, is usually 10-15°C cooler than Muscat at this time of the year. Between the two mountain ranges lies a vast sandy and stony plain which in many places is rather batten and featureless. This is where you experience the real desert. Being some 800km wide the interior acts as a barrier to many species of birds. Thus the resident birds in the north are similar to those in Asia and India, while Dhofar is much more African in its birdlife.
During migration times and in winter birdwatching can be very exciting. A quick look at a map of this region reveals that eastern Arabia forms a land bridge between Africa and Asia. Masses of birds pass through the country, especially in autumn, and many stay to winter. Particularly interesting is the vast numbers and variety of shore-birds and gulls and terns. No less than 61 species of waders and 18 species of terns have been observed! Raptors are also well represented.
The North
Common resident species on the Batinah include Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis, Bee-eater Meropsapiaster and Blue-cheeked Bee-eater M. superciliosus (pictured opposite) nest commonly on the northern half of the Batinah. In addition, Little Green Bee-eater M. orientalis is found over most of the country.
There are several excellent birdwatching areas along the Batinah. The coast for the most part sandy beaches holds large numbers of birds during migration especially in the autumn.
The coastline is interrupted in several places by tidal lagoons (khawrs) which are very good for waders, gulls and terns. A few off-shore, rocky islands hold nesting Red-billed Tropicbirds Phaethon aethereus, Sooty Falcons Falco unicolor and Bridled Terns Sternaanaethetus.
Lansab Lagoons a series of sewage settling ponds near Muscat is one of our favourite areas for birds. Throughout migration and winter as many as 50 species of birds may be seen here. Ducks including Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca are common in winter and waders may be seen most of the year. The first breeding record of Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus in Oman occurred at Lansab in 1987 and in 1989 at least 30 chicks were raised there.
Many other species of waders are seen and this group of birds is perhaps the most numerous at the lagoons. Spotted Porzana porzana and Baillon’s Crakes P. pusilla are often seen out in the open along reed-beds while Whiskered Terns Childonia hybrida are seen catching insects over the water. White-winged Black Terns C. leucopterus are occasionally seen in late spring in stunning breeding plumage. Several Asiatic races of Yellow Motacilla flava and White Wagtails M. alba occur and of the latter hundreds of birds are seen. Citrine Wagtails M. citreola are common and some may be seen in breeding plumage before their departure late March. The croaking calls and song of the Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus are often heard from the reeds.
Late April to early May is the time for a large passage of warblers. Lansab Lagoons and the nearby rubbish tip are excellent places for raptors in winter. On one occasion five species of eagles were seen in half an hour in addition to several Egyptian Vultures Neophron percnopterus and Lappet-faced Vultures Torgos traheliotus.
Another favourite hot-spot for birds is a large experimental farm near the northern city of Sohar. A constant supply of fresh water, in the form of pools created by the irrigation system, produces large green fields in arid surroundings which act as magnets on migratory birds. Almost anything may turn up and a visit is always rewarding. Indian Rollers are particularly common here and up to a hundred birds may be seen hunting grasshoppers over the hay fields. Raptors including Saker Falco cherrug and Peregrine Falcons F. peregrinus and four species of harriers may be seen. Once we watched a flock of 25 Lesser Kestrels Falco naumanni hunting for insects.
Nearby open Acacia woodlands hold many passerines during migration. Of the 12 species of Wheatears in Oman two were just recently added from this area: Eastern Pied Oenanthe picata and Finsch’s O. finschii. Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus is common here on passage and in winter, as it is in most parts of the country. Mangrove lined creeks in this area have produced a few White-collared Kingfishers Halcyon chloris of the very localised race kalbaensis found only here and at Khawr Kalba just across the UAE border.
The mountain range, Jebel Akhdar, is not rich in birds. In the wadies in the foothills one finds Sand Partridge Ammoperdix heyi, Desert Lark Ammomanes desertii and Hume’s Wheatear Oenanthe alboniger (pictured). Lappet-faced Vultures are usually seen at higher elevations. In summer it is nice to escape the oppressive heat of the coastal plain, but in winter frost is not uncommon above 2000m.
Central Oman
For the most part the vast central plain of sand and gravel supports little birdlife. Hoopoe Larks Altaemon alaudipes and Brown-necked Ravens Corvus ruficollis are widespread and a few permanent water holes attract sandgrouse by the hundreds. Most are Spotted Pterocles senegallus and Coronetted Sandgrouse P. coronatus with a few Chestnut-bellied P. exustgus amongst them. Golden Eagles nest in winter in the interior and Steppe Eagles Aquila nipalensis (pictured opposite) can also be seen. Houbara Bustards Chlamydotis undulata may be found in wide, shallow wadies, but they are rarely seen.
There are two particular areas in central Oman well worth a visit. The first is Yalooni located close to the geographical centre of the country and home of the White Oryx Project. At this field station on a flat, stony plain a reintroduction programme was started some ten years ago to save the beautiful White Oryx Oryx leucoryx. The area is shared with the elegant Mountain Gazelle Gazella gazella which must number several thousand. Because of the activities in this area over the last decade a good deal is now also known of the birdlife. Even the most unusual species may turn up during passage suggesting that migration routes are not limited to the coast, but in addition birds pass on a wide front across the desert over many hundred kilometres. Often, completely exhausted birds are seen sitting on the roads and, with temperatures above 40°C, we wonder how many migrants perish along the way.
Located in east-central Oman are the extensive tidal mudflats at Barr Al Hikman. This area was poorly investigated until a couple of years ago due to its remote location and the difficulties in getting close to the birds. The only tracks in the area are those left by the local fishermen on the sabkha (a mixture of sand, salt and mud which is hard when dry, but turns slippery and soft when flooded by the unpredictable tides).
Of special interest are Great Knots Calidris tenuirostris and Broad-billed Sandpipers. Both species had only been recorded very sparingly during autumn migration and wintering population in Oman were unknown before 1969.
The Southern Region
As already mentioned the southern region of Dhofar is much more African in its fauna and the birdlife contrasts quite strongly with that found in the rest of the country. The summer monsoon transfers the barren hills into lush grasslands and tropical valleys.
Spring brings the arrival of a few more African species such as Yellow-bellied Green Pigeon Treron waalia, Didric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius and Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala. Several khawrs along the coast are lined with reed-beds and support a large variety of birds. White Spoonbills Platalea leucorodia and Glossy Ibises Plegadis falcinellus are found almost year-round, while Pheasant-tailed Jacanas Hydrophasianus chirurgus are regular winter visitors. The khawrs also support many species of duck in winter including Cotton Teals Nettapus coromandelianus. White Storks Ciconia ciconia are found in flocks of sometimes over a hundred on farm lands and Abdim’s White Storks Ciconia abdimii are turning up almost yearly. The monsoon produces an up-welling of nutrient-rich water off the coast supporting large numbers of fish which in turn attract seabirds. The best spot for seabird watching is Mirbat, some 60km east of Salalah, and July through September can be very productive. We have watched Masked Boobies Sula dactylatra passing close to the rocks almost continuously at a rate of more than 500 per hour. Other common seabirds include Jouanin’s Petrel Bulwaria fallax, Pale-footed Shearwater Puffinus carnipes, Audubon’s Shearwater Puffinus lherminieri and Wilson’s Storm Petrel Oceanites oceanicus. Some of these species nest on the nearby Kuria Muria Islands, but the breeding grounds for Jouanin’s Petrel have never been found.
JENS AND HANNE ERIKSEN
As a husband and wife team Hanne and Jens spend most of their spare time observing and photographing birds in The Sultanate of Oman where they now live. Both native to Denmark they developed their interest in nature and birds in particular from childhood. Together they served as editors of a local magazine in Aarus, Denmark. They have travelled extensively in five continents in search of birds to photograph. In both 1989 and 1990 Hanne achieved the notable distinction of obtaining first place in the British Birds magazine Best Bird Photograph of the Year competition. In 1989 the winning shot was of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and in 1990 the subject was a family of Black-winged Stilts. Philatelists all around the world will also know of Hanne and Jens as authors of two highly popular books, one Collect Birds on Stamps, the other Collect Mammals on Stamps.
Recent Bird Sightings in the Sultanate of Oman
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster - two sub-adult at Sawadi Island, 29 September 1995 (Very rare in North Oman).
Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii - Thrumrait, 10-12 August; Danuka, 3 & 19 September; 19 Salalah, 29-30 November 1995 (rare visitor and the first records for several years)
African Spoonbill Platalea alba - Salalah area, new dates: adult 21 Jan 1994 joined by a second adult 23 Jul 1994; still present 30 Nov 1995. Second record.
Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor - about 250 at Salalah Khawrs, from around 1 Nov 1995 and still present 30 Nov. 3rd record.
Greylag Goose Anser anser - 3 at Al Ansab Lagoons, 16 Nov 1995
Ferruginous Duck Aythya anser - 2 at Al Ansab Lagoons, 16 Nov 1995
Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus - Sunub Dump, 27 Oct 1995
Manchurian Red-footed Falcon Falco amurensis - immature male near Taqah, 30 Nov 1995
Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus - Al Beed Farm and Dauka, 18 Sep 1995
Common Crane - 5 or 6 near Marmui, 10-22 Nov 1995
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio porphyrio - 2 at Qurm Park, 29 Oct - 1 Nov 1995 (4th record)
Painted Snipe Rostratula benghulensis - adult female at Al Ansab Lagoons, 24 Aug - 2 Sep 1995 (5th record)
Little Pratincole Glarcola lactea - Fahud, 30 Oct 1995
Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus - Khawr Razat, 24 Aug 195
Spotted Eagle Owl Bubo africanus - Khawr Razat, 24 Aug 1995
Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris - near Marmul, 30 Nov 1995
Garden Warbler Sylvia borin - Dauka, 18 Sep 1995
Rose-coloured Starling - Duaka, 29 Jun 1995(unusual time); 125 Salalah, 30 Nov 1995 (unusual number)
Wattled Starling Creatophora cineracea - juvenile at Salalah, 5 Aug 1995
Comon Mynah Acridotheres tristis - continuing northwest-ward expansion from the capita area: 4-+ at Barka, 29 Sep 1995; Sawadi, 30 Sep 1995; 8 at Sohar, 3 Nov 1995
All records have been approved by the Oman Bird Records Committee
Click Here To Return To Originators Contents/Introduction Site