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Birding Trip to the Sultanate of Oman

22^nd September to 5^th October 2000

Introduction

Where else in the world can you see African species side by side with Indian species along with Arabian endemics and bucket loads of European migrants?

The answer of course is nowhere else only in Oman can one experience this unique situation.

The country is huge and a major trip is required to take in all the sites.

I went for 15 days and managed to visit quite a few of them.

The regions of Oman can be split into 3 categories The North (mountainous & desert), The Interior (sun baked desert with scattered oasis) and Dhofar (lush sub-tropical green mountains, alpine type meadows and bird rich Khors).

All 3 regions are rather different from each other I had wanted to visit Oman for some 18 months or more and planned a trip last year that fell through and never got off the ground, so when I saw this trip advertised with Cohn Richardson through limosa I thought that I would pay for his services and extend the trip by a third on my own, it paid off and thanks to Cohn's knowledge and that of Jens & Hanne Erikson that I managed with some of my own hard work to see 203 species very well in this short length of time, there was 2 more species only heard (their tales will be told later).

I saw 22 lifers quite extraordinary considering this was my 5th birding trip to the Middle East.

The Sultanate of Oman is a wonderful country and it was great being back in Arabia, listening to the harsh sound of the Arabic tongue, also the sound of the holy koran drifting across the desert from a distant mosque, other memories were of Tristram's Grackles feeding off of the heads of camels, the cornflower blue skies, the ultramarine hue of the Indian Ocean, miles and miles of golden beach sand, immaculate grass verges with brightly coloured flowering shrubs with sprinklers going attended to by gangs of Indians, the clever and often dramatic theme roundabouts also lovingly attended to by the latter.

Oman's seemingly lack of crime should be mentioned I have rarely felt less threatened and didn't give the safety of my belongings a second thought.

Strangers were not only friendly and very polite but most couldn't do enough for you.

Prices were a relief from rip-off Britain for instance a full tank of premium for my Mazda 1.8 hire car was under £15, a curry meal with fresh fruit salad and soft drinks under a fiver, litre bottles of cola or water were 30p etc,etc. Most of Oman's roads were virtually empty and well signposted with 24 hour fuel stations well placed. However camels can be in the road just about anywhere. Birding sites often had no other people at them at all and certainly no other birders.

But like everything no where can be heaven on earth and the trip had one major drawback this was the stifling humid heat, burning hot sun that no amount of factor suncream or sunblock can combat, I am talking so hot that at times one could feel their feet burning through their boots. We had a four hour stopover at Bahrain shortly after dawn and after a overnight flight I thought that I would like to stretch my legs and see if I could find some migrants, as I exited the airport buildings the heat hit me my glasses steamed up and it was a full 15 minutes before I could use my bins and scope.

I found a nearby Khor and birded for a couple of hours during which time the temperature reached 43 degrees C. I found when I got back to the airport that I could literally ring my shirt out.

The daily temperatures were highs of in the North & Interior 41 degrees C. In Dhofar around sea level 35-39 degrees C. and slightly cooler than that in the Dhofar mountains.

In this heat camping and long. hikes are out of the question.

Essential clothing required were long sleeved light weight shirts, light weight thorn proof trousers, wide brimmed sun hat and good gripping walking boots I purchased all my gear from Millets.

Plenty of suncream for hands and face is required at least factor 25.

Insect repellent is required there are some vicious biting insects that come out at dusk (I used the boots chemist yellow bottle it was excellent).

We did a brief tour of the Northern sites then flew down to Salalah and birded Dhofar for a few days then we drove up into the Interior some 2SOkms. To Quitbit resthouse to stay and explore we then returned to Dhofar and I birded alone for 5 days.

I recommend this route.

I had always planned to try and combine my visit to Qman to take in the summering African species some of which are surprisingly much commoner then further south in the Yemen for instance Didric Cuckoo and African Paradise Flycatcher, I also wanted to get some of the wintering Indian species like Pheasant-tailed Jacana which winters no-where else in the Middle East.

Seabirds were also important to me as I had heard that trips at other times have struggled for them One of the advantages of birding in Oman is that the sites are so easy to find all the Khors in Dhofar worth visiting are on the main Mughsayl to Mirbat coast road and are often sign posted Most of the wadis and all the ayns are signposted tourist attractions with car parks and in some cases with toilets.

Away from Dhofar in the interior the habitat is flat dead desert the sites are also signposted from the major Salalah-Muscat road but also here one has the advantage of being able to see any habitat for miles away (like the migrants do) you simply cant go wrong.

In the interior the best places to look for birds are anywhere with water for instance a dripping tap or a leaky irrigator the birds are literally lining up for a drink, also anywhere with shade they sit under tractors, huts, even in the line offence posts.

Often in the interior familiar birds look very strange the strong Arabian light coupled with birds flying around with their bills open and legs dangling can be a pitfall. Another beauty here is that often shy species back home are quite brazen here Nightingales hop around ones feet flicking their tales, Quails can be seen on the deck, Nightjars observed hawking and perching during daylight, and even Crakes feeding out in the open in the heat of the day oblivious to humans or traffic.

In north Qman two simply not to be missed sites are fairly awkward to find(some hints later) these are Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons and Sanub Rubbish Dump, these are Jens Erikson's local patch and he would be only too glad to show you around and give you an update on what is about

I found Jens and Hanne so friendly that they even invited us to their home on the university campus for dinner and a slide show, they then phoned me at my hotel in Salalah over 1,000kms away to see how I was getting on. If you are thinking of visiting Oman and have not seen their book here are some of the finest bird photographs that I have ever seen superb light usage and much thought has gone into the birds pose.

A compulsory visa is required from the Qmani embassy in London and can be purchased for £40 (tel 0207-589-2840) for more details.

I flew with Gulf Air via Bah rain to Muscat and returned via Abu Dhabi to and from Heathrow

The return flight from Muscat-Salalah is with Qman Air. For cheaper flights try The Flight Centre, Greenwich, London (tel 0208-858-6677).

Wildwings, Bristol (tel 0117-984-8040)

Trailfinders, London (0207-937-5400) A combined Oman/Gulf Air package can be bought.

The flight to Bahrain was around 7 hours and 20 minutes and then a further one hour and a half onto Muscat.

Muscat to Salalah was around I hours flight time. Money can be changed on arriving in Oman at Seeb International Airport and also at any Bank of Oman in any town, most hotels also change money.

I took only pounds sterling and had no problems. The exchange rate was 0.57 Rial = £1.

There are 1000 biasas = 1 Rial.

Car hire is very useful although taxis are much cheaper than back home for instance I paid 2 Rial for a taxi to take me to East Khor for dawn from the Hamilton Plaza Hotel and collect me from there at l0am. And return me to the hotel again.

Cars can be hired for around 10 Rial per day, weekly rates can be arranged there are so few tourists in Oman that I recommend sorting out any car hire on arrival this way you will get the best deal.

Mazdas 1 .8s seem favourite hire cars usually white. Thrifty car hire had all manner of vehicles and the incharge person (yes that is really what his card said) was practically begging me to hire his vehicles at Salalah they can be located at the Hamilton Plaza Hotel in the foyer (tel 9323482).

There are a few sites where a 4-wheel drive is required, Tawi Attiar sinkhole, and the Wadis Hinna, Darbet and Mughsayl.

All other sites can easily be reached by an ordinary saloon car.

A current international driving licence is required this can be obtained through green flag for around £13 (tel 0345-670345).

There are dirt tracks that run around all the Khors (except Khor Sawly) the Sun Farms, Rubbish Dump and the Sewage Lagoons.

Stick to the Mughsayl-Mirbat bypass at Salalah all the bird sites and the hotels are on this road.

A very good map of The Sultanate of Oman (Geo Project) can be purchased from Stanfords, Covent Garden, London for £7 (tel 0207-836-1321).

This has city maps on one side Salalah shows the East Khor, Qurm shows the National Park and Mutrah the not to be missed fish souq, your dhow for Fahal Island should leave from the harbour here.

Arabic obviously is the official language but most people understand English although not well enough for a conversation, as in the U.A.E. there are many Indians residing in Oman who speak also in Hindu. Anti-Malaria tablets are essential my doctor prescribed Nivaquine tablets 200mgms. 2 Per week and Paludrine tablets l00mgms. 2 per day, these need to be taken I week before departure and for 4 weeks on returning home Bare this in mind a birder recently contracted Malaria as near to Europe as Egypt, you will definitely get bitten by mosquito's it is not bad for them but they are there! I found the food in Oman absolutely excellent lovely tasty veggie or chicken curries (on par with our madras) lamb biryanis or ghobi abo, I also ate salads and fresh fruit salads.

I was up every morning at 5am for dawn at 6am sunset was at 6:30pm.

I took with me a picnic breakfast & lunch of fruit, sandwiches, pringles, peanuts and mango juice. Tea and coffee was drank in the hotel I also succumbed to the odd ice cream.

I drank only bottled water around 1.5 litres per day and this was taken on every excursion

No booze of any description was seen by myself and quite frankly in that heat it was the last thing on my mind. I never suffered from the trots once.

The hotels in Oman were very grand often roomy with king size beds lovely showers and heavenly cool air conditioning they ranged in price from around 12 Rial-18 Rial per night and the staff often treat you like royalty. I really must recommend the Hamilton Plaza Hotel in Salalah with fully equipped supermarket next door (it plays hilarious Richard Clayderman piped music throughout the whole complex about 6 tracks that run morning, noon and night the end result is that everyone is humming and whistling the same tunes).

The Quitbit rest house in the interior c250kms from Salalah must not be missed it is an oasis set in the desert and is like a bird obs without the mist nets it is also very, very cheap.

Cohn Richardson's knowledge was brilliant he really had his finger on the pulse and many of these sites are both his and Jens.

I also used Gavin & Val Thomson and Henk Hendriks trip reports these are obtainable from Steve Whitehouse and his F.B.R.I..S. service (tel 01905-454541).

The travel guide to Oman & the U.A.E. from insight was very useful and is also available from Stanfords priced £17, it actually gives some info on birding and other tourist spots.

Only 2 field guides are required The Birds of the Middle East by Porter, Christensen, and Schiermacker-Hansen. £30.

And The Bird Guide to Britain & Europe by Mullarney, Svensson, Zetterstrom and Grant. £25.

Jens and Hanne Erikson can be contacted on (tel 513193) or at P.O.Box 36, Al khod 123, The Sultanate of Oman. The Times of Oman newspaper is printed in English daily and is priced 300 baisas. It keeps one up to date with both Middle Eastern and World events and amazingly the football results from back home the very next day even the Scottish second division (Who on earth would want to know this in Oman? Does anyone care in Scotland?) I saw Six species more than last years trip to the United Arab Emirates and 62.5% of the species seen on that trip where seen here.

SPECIES LIST

Little Grebe
Common at all freshwater sites eg 17 Al Ansab Lagoons
22 East Khor.
Many in breeding plumage also stripey headed juveniles seen.

Jouanin's Petrel
Commonly seen off Mirbat less so elsewhere
25 Mirbat 26/9
2 Khor Mughsayl 27/9
1 Khor Taqar 2/10
55 Mirbat 3/10

Persian Shearwater
Commonly seen offshore throughout the trip often very close to.
3 Fahal Island 23/9
70+ Mirbat 26/9
50+ Khor Mughsayl 27/9
1 East Khor l/10
75 Mirbat 3/10

Pale-footed Shearwater
Very close off of Fahal Island.
6 Fahal Island 23/9
12 Mirbat 26/9

Red-billed Tropicbird
Seen at the nest hole at Fahal island both adults & juvenile.
4 Fahal Island 23/9

Masked Booby
Wonderfully close views of an adult off of Fahal Island
Both adults & Juveniles seen elsewhere.
1 Fahal Island 23/9
100+ Mirbat 26/9
1 Khor Mughsayl 27/9

Socotra Cormorant
An adult seen.
1 Khor Mughsayl 27/9

Little Bittern
Adult males & juveniles seen.
1 Wadi Darbet 27/9
3 Khor Sawly 2/10
1 Khor Taqar 2&4/10
3 KhorTaqar 4/10

Yellow Bittern
One very yellowy-buff juvenile, with lightly streaked mantle & crown underparts lightly striped, yellow bill & legs. It sat motionless at the base of the reeds.
1 East Khor 25/9

Night Heron
Both adults & juveniles seen.
4 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 23/9
1 Wadi Darbet 27/9
6 Khor Mughsayl 3/10

Striated Heron
One seen at night! The Fahal precipitous rocky ledges.
5 Fahal Island 23/9
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons

Squacco Heron
Seen uncommonly throughout the trip, one individual at Sahanawt Sun Farm was in the cattle pens like a Cattle Egret.

Indian Pond Heron
One exquisite adult in full breeding plumage was feeding off of floating vegetation at Khor Taqar.
1 Khor Mughsayl 27/9 & 3/10
1 East Khor 1-5/10
1 Khor Taqar 2-5/10
1 Khor Sawly 2/10

Cattle Egret
Seen on & off during the trip the highest count at the Heron roost at East Khor.
62 East Khor 3/10
Island birds standing on very 23-24/9

Western Reef Heron
Seen at all coastal locations dark grey ones, white ones & in betweenies.

Little Egret
Commonly seen at freshwater locations.

Great White Egret
3 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 23-24/9.

Grey Heron
As common as back home.

Purple Heron
Commonly seen at most freshwater locations both adults & juveniles often right out in the open.

White Stork
13 Garziz Sun Farm 27/9 & 4/10
25 Al Beed Farm 29/9
9 Sahanawt Sun Farm 1/10

Glossy Ibis
Also commonly seen at most freshwater sites, highest count the roost at East Khor.
41 East Khor 3/10

Spoonbill
Seen throughout the trip, highest count at Khor Mughsayl.
12 Khor Mughsayl 27/9

Greater Flamingo
Commonly seen at all Khors including Bahrain.

Shelduck
Ajuvenile being a new bird for me in the Middle East.
1 Khor Sawly 2/10

Common Teal
A fairly common duck in Oman.

Garganey
Absolutely abundant on almost every patch of water in Oman, I even had flocks on the sea!

Marbled Teal (Duck)
Seen well on the water & in flight.
1 East Khor 26/9-5/10

Pintail
All birds in Eclipse.
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9
5 Khor Rouri 26/9
23 Khor Rouri 2/10
4 Khor Sawly 2/10

Shoveler
A fairly common duck seen throughout the trip.

Fulvous Whistling Duck
Also seen well both on the water & in flight, once with green weed over its back.
A rare Vagrant from Tropical Africa!
26/9-5/10

Black Kite
1 Garziz Sun Farm 4/10

Egyptian Vulture
Literally hundreds seen in all variety of plumages in the vicinity of Sanub Dump, less common elsewhere.

Lappet-faced Vulture
In the sky virtually the whole time that we were at Sanub Dump both Adults & juveniles 3 seen together!
3 Sanub Dump 23/9

Marsh Harrier
Commonly seen throughout the trip.

Montagu's Harrier
Also commonly seen especially rufousy juveniles.

Long-legged Buzzard
A very smart adult.
1 Montasar Oasis 29/9

Steppe Eagle
As in the Emirates just one juvenile seen.
1 Al Beed Farm 29/9

Imperial Eagle
Breath taking views both birds juvenile.
1 Khor Sawly 2/10
1 Garziz Sun Farm 4/10 at the Sun Farms mostly

Golden Eagle
In the Middle East a Desert dwelling species!
This bird an impressive golden-naped adult.
1 Montasar Oasis 29/9

Verreaux's Eagle
I did exceptionally well with this magnificent beast, if only all species had their initials on their backs like Vs do. Both Adults & juveniles seen.
1 Ayn Hamran 25/9
1 Ayn Rayzut 30/9
2 Ayn Hamran 4/10

Booted Eagle
A light phase adult.
1 Salalah Golf Course 3/10

Bonelli's Eagle
There cannot be a better country in the world to see this raptor easing the hurt of missing it this summer in Spain. Both adults & juveniles seen, even seen at the nest!
2 Wadi Hinna (nesting) 26/9
1 Wad Darbet 27/9
1 Ayn Rayzut 30/9
1 Ayn Sahanawt 1/10

Short-toed Eagle
Presumably the same adult.
1 Sahanawt Sun Farm 26/9 & 1/10

Osprey
Commonly seen throughout the trip.

Kestrel
The commonest bird of prey.

Hobby
An adult having a go at a Pallid Swift.
1 Tawi Attair Rd 2/10

Sooty Falcon
Both adults & juveniles one seen swooping at a Red-billed Tropicbird.
40+ Fahal Island 23/9

Peregrine Falcon
A rather pale-headed juvenile.
1 Khor Sawly 26/9

Barbary Falcon
Both birds terrorising the inhabitants of Khor Mughsayl & then watching from telegraph wires & poles overlooking the Khor.
2 Khor Mughsayl 27/9

Arabian Partridge
All adults 4 birds at Ayn Hamran feeding on the base of the same cactus.
7 Tawi Attair Rd 27/9
4 Ayn Hamran 4/10

Grey Francolin
3 Muscat 22/9
3 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 23-24/9

Common Quail
Finally seen on the deck.
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9
1 Khor Taqar 26/9
1 Montasar Oasis 29/9

Little Crake
Both birds juveniles.
I East Khor 30/9
1 KhorTaqar5/10

Baillon's Crake
Also juveniles both very tame & very showy.
1 Khor Mughsayl 3/10
1 Khor Taqar 4&5/10

Moorhen
Abundant.

Coot
A common freshwater species especially at East Khor.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana
An utterly superb adult seen well in flight & walking on floating vegetation with feet almost the size of my hands & the copper colouration glistening in the sun Easily Bird of the Trip!
1 Khor Taqar 4/10

Oystercatcher
Commonly seen both in Bahrain & Oman.

Black-winged Stilt
Commonly seen.

Avocet
1 Khor Mughsayl 27/9
1 Khor Taqar 2/10
1 Khor Rouri 2/10

Collared Pratincole
Both adults & juveniles seen.
3 Garziz Sun Farm 25/9, & 2 on 4/10.
5 Sahanawt Sun Farm 1/10

Little Ringed Plover
Seen throughout the trip especially in the cow pens at the sun farms, even seen on the beach at Khor Taqar.

Ringed Plover
Commonly seen in both Bahrain & Oman

Kentish Plover
Very common from first day (22/9) Airport Khor, Bahrain to the last day (5/10) Khor Taqah.

Lesser Sand Plover
The commonest plover of the trip often seen in breeding plumage, one seen over 200kms away from the coast
I Montasar Oasis 29/9

Greater Sand Plover
Only seen in Bahrain with Lesser Sand Plovers.
3 Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9

Caspian Plover
A marvellously exciting species with very long legs.
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9
1 Khor Rouri 2/10

Pacific Golden Plover
Transitional adults & juvenilles.
3 Airport Khor,Bahrain 22/9
5 Khor Taqar 2/10 & 13 on 4/10
2 Garziz Sun Farm 4/10

European Golden Plover
A very rare bird in Oman!
This bird a juvenile.
1 East Khor 26/9

Grey Plover
Some in breeding plumage.
52 Airport Khor Bahrain 22/9
1 East Khor 1/10
1 Khor Rouri 2/10

Red-wattled Lapwing (Plover)
One seen in Dhofar where it is a rare vagrant!
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 1/10 & 6 on 24/9
1 Ayn Sahanawt 1/10

White-tailed Plover
This graceful gem was seen throughout the trip.
6 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9 & 2 on 23/9
2 Khor Taqar 26/9 & 1 from 2-5/10

Sanderling
Not an uncommon coastal species regularly seen.

Little Stint
Abundant.

Temminck's Stint
Commonly seen during the trip even seen on the beach at Khor Taqar, the highest count Garziz Sun Farm.
12 Garziz Sun Farm 3/10

Curlew Sandpiper
Frequently seen during the trip both transitional adults & juveniles, highest count Airport Khor, Bahrain.
75+ Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9

Dunlin
Some with very long bills, highest count also Airport
Khor,Bahrain 100+22/9

Broad-billed Sandpiper
Some fine breeding plumaged adults.
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9
1 East Khor 26/9
3 Sahanawt Sun Farm 1/10
1 Khor Taqar 2-4/10

Common Snipe
Very Common.

Pintail Snipe
A very croaky individual.
1 Dauka 28/9

Black-tailed Godwit
Seen in small numbers
15 Khor Rouri 2/10

Bar-tailed Godwit
Much commoner than the former species, highest count Airport Khor, Bahrain.
22 Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9

Whimbrel
Seen in small numbers throughout the trip, highest count at Khor Sawly.
6 Khor Sawly 2/10

Curlew
Commonly seen usually the long-billed race, highest numbers as follows.
33 Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9
22 Khor Mughsayl 3/10

Ruff
Abundant.

Redshank
Commonly seen many juveniles with very yellowy legs.

Greenshank
A common Omani bird throughout.

Marsh Sandpiper
Such a delicate wader.
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9
2 Khor Mughsayl 27/9 & 3/10
1 Khor Rouri 2/10

Green Sandpiper
Seen daily sometimes

Wood Sandpiper
Commoner than Green Sandpiper.

Common Sandpiper
The most frequently seen wader of the trip.

Terek Sandpiper
Seen in small numbers during the trip the highest count at Airport Khor,Bahrain.
28 Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9

Turnstone
Seen throughout the trip the highest count once again at the Airport Khor,Bahrain.
12 Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9

Red-necked Phalarope
Non-breeding birds.
15 Fahal Island 23/9

Arctic Skua
All adults.
4 Fahal Island 23/9
2 Seeb Airport Beach 24/9

Pomarine Skua
Both adults &juveniles.
2 Fahal Island 23/9
1 Seeb Airport Beach 24/9
2 Khor Mughsayl 27/9

South Polar Skua
A flock of three.
3 Mirbat 26/9

Sooty Gull
A very Common scavenger. double figures.

White-eyed Gull
A juvenile who's(White-eye type) eye-ring shone like a beacon in a flock of Sooty Gulls.
1 Khor Sawly 2/10

Slender-billed Gull
All adults.
6 Seeb Airport Beach 24/9
5 Khor Mughsayl 3/10
3 KhorTaqar4/10

Heuglin's Gull
Abundant, looking very large Great Black-backed like.

Caspian Gull
Commonly seen, with small white heads, long-bills, long straw coloured legs, and long wings.

Gull-billed Tern
Non breeding adults.
19 Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9
2 East Khor 30/9 & 1/10
1 Khor Rouri 2/10

Sandwich Tern
Very commonly seen.

Lesser Crested Tern
15 Seeb Airport Beach 24/9
1 Mirbat 26/9

Crested Tern (Swift Tern)
Abundant.

Caspian Tern
Both Adults.
2 Seeb Airport Beach 24/9

Common Tern
Seen throughout the trip in small numbers.

White-cheeked Tern
Very commonly seen some in breeding plumage.
This is a very short-legged Tern.

Saunder's Tern
All Juveniles. 4 Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9
1 Fahal Island 24/9

Bridled Tern
12 Mirbat 26/9

Whiskered Tern
Commonly seen throughout the trip some in breeding plumage.

Black Tern
Another very rare bird in Oman!
A near full breeding plumaged adult.
1 Khor Taqar 26/9

White-winged Black Tern
Both adults in transitional plumage & juveniles, highest count at Garziz Sun Farm.
75+ Garziz Sun Farm 4/10

Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse
Truly wonderful views of both cocks & hens
15 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 23/9

Crowned Sandgrouse
Cocks & hens scoped drinking at
25 Montasar Oasis 29/9

Spotted Sandgrouse
Pointy-tailed cocks & spotty hens Montasar Oasis.
150+ Montasar Oasis 29/9

Chestnut-bellied Sandarouse
Both sexes seen.
35 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9
1 Garziz Sun Farm 25/9

Rock Dove
Abundant some very pure looking birds in the mountains.

Collared Dove
Abundant especially at the Sun Farms.

Turtle Dove
2 Dauka 28/9
1 East Khor 3/10

Laughing Dove (Palm Dove)
Very common throughout the Oman, however the very distinctive bright Dhofar race is unmentioned in field guide! Montasar Oasis. also drinking at

Namagua Dove
A very elusive bird one dandy cock seen.
1 Ayn Hamran 30/9

Bruce's Green Pigeon
This colourful species sits quietly in fig trees eating fruit.
3 Ayn Hamran 25/9
1 Wadi Hinna 26/9
4 Ayn Rayzut (in the park) 30/9

Ring-necked Parakeet
Commonly seen throughout the trip.

Didric Cuckoo
Seen in most Wadis & Ayns in Dhofar although ones or twos, it has a very distinctive whistling call.

European Scop's Owl
Wonderful best ever views sitting out in the open in daylight in the scope.
1 Dhofar Foothills (Salalah-Thumrait Rd. km33.)

African Scop's Owl
3 heard calling during a three quarters of an hour search, then at least 15 birds calling including a female(Kee-whit call) during an extensive somewhat hairy three & a half hour search (with Wolves Howling in the woods), they were often in the tree right in front but all I got was a pair of illuminated eyes (uptickable views), they did not respond to tape or imitation.
15 Ayn Sahanawt 1/10 & 3 there on 24/9

Hume's Tawny Owl
The Trips Bitter Disappointment!
We arrived at the site in our 4-wheel drive at least half an hour before dusk and decided to try the tape to make sure that it was working okay, we were amazed when the Owl started calling back to us immediately in broad daylight, we scanned the sandy cliff face with our scopes but could not find it, then a second more deeper voiced (male?) started calling surely one would fly to the other but they didn't they carried on calling until pitch black and we departed gutted. 2 Wadi Mughsayl 27/9

European Nightiar
Seen throughout the trip often in daylight both hawking & perched highest count Ayn Sahanwt where they where hawking over the sinkhole like Swallows.
15 Ayn Sahanawt 1/10

Common Swift
Also commonly seen especially over the Khors & Sun farms.

Pallid Swift
Very common especially over the Dhofar mountains, two sites where they could be studied from above with a background below were Tawi Attair Sinkhole & Rayzut Clifts.

Grey-headed Kingfisher
Suprisingly common in Dhofar, even in the trees around Salalah Airport.

Common Kingfisher
1 Fahal Island 23/9
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 23 & 24/9

Little Green Bee-eater
Seen throughout the trip from Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 23/9 to East Khor 5/10

European Roller
Seen daily in both Dhofar & the interior, but no more than 5 or 6 daily being most common in the sun farms both adults &juveniles seen.

Indian Roller
All adults.
5 Muscat 22/9
2 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 23/9

Hoopoe
Seen during the length of the trip although 4 the highest daily count at Wadi Hinna.

Wryneck
Two one more than both the Emirates & Morocco.
1 Wadi Darbet 27/9
1 Quitbit 28/9

Singing Bushlark
Very common at the Dhofar Sun Farms although strangely easier to see at Sahanawt Sun Farm, seen less commonly in the meadows higher up.

Black-crowned Finch-Lark
Commonly seen in the interior between Thumrait and Quitbit and surprisingly 6 at Ayn Sahanawt Sinkhole 1/10.

Dunn's Lark
A Five star bird!
What a little character dwelling in the most inhospitable habitat running between tiny plants for shade
1 Shisur Desert 28/9

Desert Lark
2 Sanub Dump 23/9
3 Wadi Mughsayl 27/9

Hoopoe Lark
Also commonly seen between Dauka & Quitbit often running across the forecourts at filling stations.

Short-toed Lark
2 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9
6 Quitbit 28 & 29/9
28 Al Beed Farm 29/9

Crested Lark
Abundant in both Bahrain & Oman.

African Rock Martin (Pale Crag)
As in the Emirates it is also a town dwelling species nesting under the eves like House Martins.

Barn Swallow
Common but not abundant.

Sand Martin
The commonest hirundine.

Tawny Pipit
1 Montasar Oasis 29/9

Long-billed Pipit
So much commoner than in the Emirates, seen at several high level sites even with young.

Tree Pipit
A common migrant, 2 on the cliffs at Rayzut had obviously just arrived.

Yellow Wagtail
Abundant some flocks of hundreds, some nice breeding plumaged Grey-headed Wagtails also some very grey first winter birds.

Citrine Wagtail
Both adults & juveniles seen throughout the trip but no more than five at any one site.

Grey Wagtail
Present at all the Ayns usually in pairs.

Masked Wagtail
Another one of the trips highlights a cock in non-breeding plumage very distictive.
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9

Yellow-vented Bulbul
Abundant.

Rufous Bushohat (Robin)
A fairly common migrant often very tame.

Nightingale
Unbelievably common, showy and in song.

Blackstart
Very common in the Dhofar Hills.

Isabelline Wheatear
A common migrant.

Pied Wheatear
All cocks.
1 Airport Khor, Bahrain 22/9
1 Al Beed Farm 29/9
1 Dhofar Foothills (Salalah -Thumrait Rd.) Km33.

Desert Wheatear
Seen at several sites two nice cocks at Salalah golf course 3/10.

Red-tailed Wheatear
1 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 23/9

South Arabian Wheatear
Much commoner than I expected, prime sites were Wadi Mughsayl, Ayn Sahanawt, and the Tawi Attair Rd. Unlike mourning Wheatear this has an interesting female plumage.

Hume's Wheatear
2 Sanub Dump 23/9

Rock Thrush
A common migrant one or two cocks seen.

Blue Rock Thrush
2 Ayn Sahanawt 24/9
1 Dauka 28/9

Graceful Prinia (Warbler)
Seen daily first seen Airport Khor, Bahrain.

Reed Warbler
Seen throughout the trip often in full song sounding just like the birds back home. Prime sites Al Ansab Sewage lagoons & East Khor.

Clamourous Reed Warbler
More often heard than seen but some wonderful views were obtained with the primary projection showing well.
1 East Khor 30/9
1 Khor Sawly 2/10
1 KhorTaqar4/10

Olivaceous Warbler
A common migrant.

Arabian Warbler
Often seen at Ayn Hamran, the cocks in song and very showy other siting.
1 Wadi Hinna 26/9

Barred Warbler
Two juveniles together seen some distance apart perhaps four birds involved.
2 Ayn Sahanawt 1/10

Lesser Whitethroat
Ordinary looking ones.
1 Dauka 28/9
2 Al Beed Farm 29/9
1 Quitbit 29/9

Common Whitethroat
All birds seen of the previously unfamiliar Icterops race.
It is indeed common.

White-breasted White-eye
Abundant in Dhofar even in the trees around Salalah Airport.

Wood Warbler
1 Quitbit 28/9

Chiffchaff
1 Quitbit 28/9

Spotted Flycatcher
Abundant.

African Paradise Flycatcher
Very common in Dhofar also in the trees around Salalah airport.

Arabian Babbler
5 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9

Purple Sunbird
Male & females seen.
1 Sian Park, Muscat 22/9
4 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9

Shining Sunbird
And they do shine some gorgeous cocks, fairly commonly seen in Dhofar.

Palestine Sunbird
Only one resplendent cock seen despite extensive searching, however this bird put on a show and a half.
1 Ayn Garziz 30/9

Golden Oriole
Seen regularly throughout the trip usually one or two most days some lovely full males.
Ayn Hamran a prime site.

Black-crowned Tchagra (Bush-Shrike)
Seen only at Ayn Hamran on two separate days three birds seen feeding young.

Isabelline Shrike
Abundant seen from Bahrain to Salalah Airports and all points in between.

Red-backed Shrike
A fine cock in full plumage.
1 Salalah Golf Course 3/10

Southern Grey Shrike
Commonly seen throughout also from Bahrain Airport onwards, all birds of the race aucheri, excepting migrant elegans seen at Al Beed Farm 29/9.

House Crow
Abundant in the north, very noisy around Mutrah

Brown-necked Raven
Abundant outside Dhofar often looking brown-necked, with literally hundreds in the vicinity of Sanub Dump.

Fan-tailed Raven
A firm favourite with me abundant in Dhofar, Taqar Castle being a prime site.

Tristram's Grackle
Abundant in Dhofar.

Rose-coloured Starling
All Juveniles.
3 Quitbit 28 & 29/9
2 Montasar Oasis 29/9
2 Garziz Sun Farm 4/10

Common Mynah
Abundant in the north.

House Sparrow
Abundant in Bahrain & North Oman.

Ruppell's Weaver
Abundant in Dhofar.

Indian Silverbill
3 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9

African Silverbill
Very common in Dhofar.

Yemen Serin
Drinking and bathing in a small pool in a rock crevice.
15 Tawi Attair Sinkhole 27/9

Common Rosefinch
Both juveniles & non-breeding adults seen.
2 Quitbit 28/9
1 Quitbit 29/9
2 Montasar Oasis 29/9

House Bunting
3 Sanub Dump 23/9
2 Al Ansab Sewage Lagoons 24/9

African Rock Bunting
Extremely common in the Dhofar mountains, with over 100+ at Ayn Sahanawt.

Ortolan Bunting
All juveniles.
1 Dauka 28/9
2 Al Beed Farm 29/9
2 Montasar Oasis 29/9.

205 Species Recorded

Ray O'Reilly

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